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PLANT

• During the fall months of September, October and November, after soil temperature drops below 60°F, the bulbs of spring flowering tulips, daffodils, hyacinths, dwarf irises, anemone and crocus should be planted. Select healthy, disease free bulbs. Add bone meal or bulb fertilizer into the planting hole, as you prepare the soil.

• Winter pansies, flowering kale, flowering cabbage and fall mums may be planted now, to give a little color to the garden when the summers flowers have faded away.

• Scatter the seeds of perennials in a row or in open beds this month so that the young seedlings will be ready to be transplanted into their permanent spot next spring.

• Sow seeds of most perennial wildflowers, especially spring and early summer bloomers, in the fall from September through November. They are naturally adapted to and benefit from fall rains and cold winter soils.

• Lift and divide crowded perennials. Amend the soil with organic matter before replanting. Set the divided plants back into the soil at their original growing depths, water well and mulch. Give extras to friends.

• If you have beautiful plants of coleus, geranium, begonia and impatiens and dread the thought of these plants being reduced to mush by the first freeze, now is the time to take cuttings to overwinter.

• Fall is a good time to select and plant trees and shrubs. Fall planting encourages good root development, allowing the plants to get established before spring. Plant deciduous trees on the south and west sides of buildings to provide summer shade and to allow the winter sun to warm the buildings.

• Check to see if potted tropicals such as hibiscus, allamanda, ixora or mandevilla need repotting before bringing in for the winter. Gently ease the root ball out of the pot. If the roots are visibly matted around the bottom or sides of the root ball, it is time to repot into a larger container.

• For areas left open until next planting, consider a cover crop that can be turned under in the spring to help improve the soil.

FERTILIZE

• Take soil tests for new planting areas.

• Do not fertilize warm-season lawns unless recommended by soil tests.

• Stop fertilizing roses six weeks before the average first freeze date in your area.

• Acidify azaleas and all acid loving plants.

• Top-dress winter-blooming bulbs with a balance fertilizer (such as 10-10-10) to encourage blooms and health.

PRUNE

• Root-prune wisterias that failed to bloom.

• Prune houseplants that grew vigorously during the summer while outdoors. Exception: poinsettia – do not pinch back after September 1.

• Avoid severe pruning this time of year, as it may encourage new growth that will not have time to harden off before frost. Light pruning or "heading back," however, can be done at any time. Just remember that if you prune spring flowering shrubs now, you’ll be removing flowerbuds as well.

WATER

• Don’t allow plants with green fruit or berries to suffer from lack of moisture.

• Replenish mulches around trees and shrubs, and water every 3 to 5 days.

• Late summer, when pecan kernels are forming, is a critical time for moisture stress. Pecans should get at least one inch of water weekly. Mature trees can lose hundreds of gallons of water daily through transpiration; unless this lost moisture is replaced, the trees will lose fruit and leaves. Mow around the trees to remove vegetation that can use the trees’ moisture. Mowing also creates a smooth layer for harvesting.

• This month can be very dry, so keep a close eye on the moisture in your container plants. It doesn’t take but one severe wilting of the plants to ruin the quality of the container display.

• Maintain the water level in your water garden. If it contains fish, make sure to dechlorinate.

PEST CONTROL

• Maintain good sanitation throughout the garden. Remove diseased plants immediately as well as those that have finished their growth cycle for the year. Compost only healthy plant material.

• Control webworms and tent caterpillars with Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) or Dipel.

• Treat lawn with Fertilome Weed Free Zone to control spurge, bindweed or other broadleaf weeds.

• You will have a lesser fire ant problem next spring if you get them this fall. Some products to consider would be Logic, Over ‘N Out, HY Turf Ranger or Come ‘N Get It!.

• Protect plants from voles, rabbits and deer with Deer Off or Critter Ridder.

• Houseplants that have spent summers outside should be monitored for any sign of insect or disease before bringing them indoors.

ODD JOBS

• Update your journal with results from this season, applying ideas for fall plantings and modifications and make notes on your new plants so you will be able to document their performance.

• This is a good time to evaluate your autumn landscape to see where new plants can be added next spring and summer to provide fall color. Asters, perennial salvias and some of the sedums (including the popular ‘Autumn Joy’ with its attractive pink flowers) are good choices for long-lasting color at this time of the year.

• Dig garlic when their tops die.

• Remove stakes and cages as plants finish for the year. Clean and store for next spring.

• After you’ve harvested everything and the plants have been removed, till the vegetable garden, compost it, till again and plant a cover crop of clovers, cow peas or vetches for the purpose of plowing under late in the winter or early next spring. These nitrogen producing plants will provide good organic matter and food for your garden crops next year, as well as helping to control weeds over the winter.

• Did your tulips and hyacinths come up short last year? They needed more chill time. Purchase bulbs now and place them in the vegetable bins of your refrigerator for at least six to eight weeks before planting.

• Amaryllis bulbs that have summered outdoors must begin their dormant period. Remove bulb from container and shake off all dirt. Cut back all foliage, whether it is yellow or green, and set bulb on its side in a cool, dark room for several months until new growth appears.

• Clean up fallen leaves and compost them. If you don’t have a compost bin or heap, September is a good time to begin one. Layer grass clippings, dried fallen leaves, soil, a handful of fertilizer and a little moisture. Shredded garden debris can be added as annuals and perennials die back next month.

• If the lawn needs thatching, it can be done during the early fall.

• Pot up some spring flowering bulbs for indoor color during the winter. Store the pots in a cool, dark place, until new growth emerges from the soil, and then move them to a bright window.

• Mark your perennials with permanent tags or create a map showing their locations so you’ll know where and what they are when they die back at the end of the season. This will help you to avoid digging up something you intended to keep when you plant bulbs and plants this fall and next spring.

• One last effort at weeding will help to improve the appearance of your garden throughout the winter.

• The birds will soon begin their winter migrations. Give them a helping hand by providing them with some food for their long journey. No one likes to travel on an empty stomach.