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PLAN NOW FOR PREDATORS
People
ask me all the time "what’s the key to controlling
predators"? My response is generally short and to the point,
planning. People who have a plan usually have more success than those
who don’t.
In
a lot of ways it is no different than preparing a deer stand, duck blind
or dove field. In fact, planning for predators is usually much simpler
than dove fields and duck blinds. The reason for this is because
predator planning requires little effort and hardly any materials. |
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Planning
for predators can begin by simply inspecting a fence line for strands of
hair. Animals have a tendency to travel a path of least resistance. This
is why they will slide under a woven wire fence instead of attempting to
crawl through it or over it. Sliding beneath the wire is simply much
easier and safer. These areas are usually created by drainage or a
natural dip in the terrain. The key is to find the preferred locations
and prepare them for a trap or snare. In most instances the snare is my
choice of tool for fence work. A snare can be attached easily to the
wire for emplacement and anchoring.
Preparing
the location should consist of simply making a specific location more
preferable to the animal. By preferable I mean more appealing; such as
slightly lower |
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and less
obstructive. This can be easily done by merely shoveling a small amount
of dirt from beneath the wire. Keeping vegetation clear of the pathway
also enhances the location. Critters will learn these locations and use
them regularly.
Now
is the best time to prepare snares for the upcoming fall and winter.
Snares should be treated before ever being applied. The method I prefer
is to coil the snares separately before placing them in a washable
container. In the container I place a strong solution of soap and water.
Then I allow the snares to set for a week or so to remove any solvents
from them. Once the snares are clean I then rinse them thoroughly with
water.
The
next step is to create a covering of fine rust on the snare. This can be
done by simply placing them outside, over night where they will be
covered by dew. Generally this will take several weeks to accomplish.
Placing snares in a mixture of orange juice and water will speed the
rusting process. Either way, once the snares have developed a fine coat
of reddish rust they should be allowed to air out for a week or so
before storing in zip lock bags.
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Planning
for the Gun
There
have been some heated debates among deer hunters to the shooting of
predators while on the stand. Some say shooting anything around a stand
will frighten the deer. Some hunters feel it does little, if any harm. I
say anytime I can let the air out of a coyote, it’s deflated. In fact,
I prepare specific locations around my deer stands simply for this
reason.
I
shot three coyotes and one super nice buck last season from one stand.
Two of the coyotes fell prey to the same attractor. That’s right; I
lured the coyotes to where I wanted to shoot them, which was away from
the main deer trails. |
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A
coyote is member of the canine family. Like all canines, coyotes use
their urine to mark their territory. In most instances the urine is
placed at a specific location; rocks, stumps, fence posts, trees, etc.
are prime targets for catching a load of wee-wee. Canines, for some
reason, like to place their scent on objects which stand out in
appearance. |
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During
the summer months I like to place old bones, preferably a large rib
bone, around my hunting area. Placing a bleached white bone at the edge
of a field has a way of receiving attention. By doing so months before
hunting season, the bone will soon be cleaned by the elements thus
eliminating any human odor. Once the scent of man has left the
attractor, I assure you it will soon receive numerous doses of urine.
This practice will continue until either the bone disappears or the
donor meets its ancestors. Just remember to place the attractors away
from where you expect the deer to be.
Pond
Pleasers…
Summer
time is when I prepare my contraptions for dealing with critters that
like the water. Muskrats, minks and raccoons often create problems
around the farm. Muskrats can create a lot of damage to pond and lake
levees. Minks and raccoons can become a nuisance to the hen house. The
one thing they all have in common is they like the water. This is where
I prefer to place my summer time critter getters when the time comes.
The
critter getter I refer to is simply a fifty-five gallon metal barrel I
have modified. The modifications are merely drilling several one-inch
holes around the lower one-third and bottom of the barrel. This will
allow water to fill the barrel and also allow water to escape when
removed from the water.
The
next step is to cut a 10x10 inch square from the top of the barrel. The
square is then covered with thin plastic fastened to the barrel with
sheet metal screws. When the barrel is placed at the waters edge, a
couple of medium size branches should be placed to permit access to the
barrel. Then cut the plastic from corner to corner to form an X. This
will permit the animal to fall into the watery tomb. The final
preparation is placing lure on top of the barrel for an attractant. |
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When
trying to lure muskrats, I like to use cherry pie filling, carrots or
parsnips. Raccoons will respond to fish, cat food or about anything
greasy. The best way to lure mink is to first lure the muskrats; the
mink will respond to the scent and sounds of the drowning muskrats. This
is a cheap and highly effective method for handling pesky problems. So
make the most of summer and get prepared for those autumn pests.
Bill
Bynum has written extensive articles and has published a book, Predator
Hunting, on the subject, and he is editor of Predator and Prey
magazine. |
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