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For an archer, many questions have to be answered when picking out equipment. I have a passion for the sport of archery and I try to convey that excitement to other people. I’ve taught archery and bowhunter education classes for a number of years. What I find most interesting are the questions beginners have. Where does an archer begin when picking equipment?

To begin, unless you know exactly what you’re doing, DO NOT order your equipment online, through the mail or buy it in a discount store where you’re not going to get proper help. Unless you are educated at bow set-up, you MUST go to a qualified archery pro-shop. In fact, one step further, in my opinion, if the pro-shop isn’t able to paper-tune (shoot your arrows through paper) your set-up, I would keep looking for a shop that can. You must have your outfit tuned for optimum arrow flight. An archery pro-shop is going to be able to set you up with the proper equipment and then, more importantly, make sure it’s working efficiently before you leave.

You must first choose a bow. It’s unbelievable, there are so many different models, how does one know where to begin? There are speed cams, single cams, cam and ½, round

If you have questions about equipment or technique you may find that an archery class can answer them all. You can find archery classes offered by the state, your local archery pro-shop or, many times, from your local county park recreational department’s programs.

No matter what you choose for gear, you must make sure your arrow is tuned properly before hunting. The easiest way to tune a bow is to shoot your arrow through paper and then examine the hole it produces. If it is ripping one way or another, you have some adjusting to do. Most archery pro-shops are set up with the equipment and know-how to easily do this for you.

My best advice is to go to one of these pro-shops, tell them what you’d like to spend, what you want to do with the bow and then ask for a couple of options. If they tell you "this" is the only bow you should shoot, don’t believe them, turn around, walk out the door and find a different dealer. With today’s technology, one bow manufacturer makes a bow that will hit a ten-ring or put down a whitetail just as well as the next one. Pick up each of the choices they provide and decide which one feels good to "you."

I have been shooting either a Hoyt or a Reflex bow for a number of years. Two things I’ll highlight: I very much believe in the FX Cam & ½ technology - these bows are smooth and powerful. I also feel that for both lines, but especially with Reflex, you really get a superb value when compared to other manufacturers. This season I’m shooting a Reflex Charger – like I said "if it feels good, shoot it."

How much should it cost? You don’t need a $1,000 bow to get the job done. On the other hand, don’t skimp. If you plan on spending $250 on a bow, you’re going to be back next year having to upgrade.

Once you choose a bow that feels good to you and fits you properly, arrows are another area where I wouldn’t skimp! I suggest carbon arrows specifically from Carbon Express. From the testing I’ve done, and from hunting with carbon arrows for over 20 years, carbon shafts are "simply better" - period. They are stronger, faster, flatter-shooting, straighter, absorb more energy from the bow, retain more energy in flight and penetrate deeper than aluminum, wood or other composite shafts.

The reasons I recommend Carbon Express all have to do with the technology they possess. Take a look at the wall thickness of other carbon arrows. Many shafts are made so the carbon-weaved sheets overlap on one side of the shaft when they are rolled. This creates inconsistent flight because of the inconsistent wall thickness. If you look closely you can actually see this with your naked eye. The Carbon Express shaft matches up EXACTLY so there is no overlap. You have consistent wall thickness which means consistent flight.

Another reason I would choose these shafts is because of their weight-forward design. Arrows fly straight because of several principles, one being there is more weight on one end of the projectile. A Carbon Express shaft emphasizes this with their weight forward design. Combine that with the fact the back end of the shaft receives an exclusive, highly advanced carbon fiber called BuffTuff, which makes the arrow stiffer and lighter in the back to dramatically improve recovery from "archer’s paradox" (the flexing of the shaft back and forth when it is released). Actually this BuffTuff technology is used throughout the shaft to add weight and strength. If you are one who needs to see for yourself, as I am, I suggest going to www.carbonexpressarrows.com and viewing the "Slow Motion Oscillation Test" video they have.

Make sure you choose the proper "spine" for your shaft. Every arrow should flex, or bend, when the string is released. The idea is to have just the right amount of flex and then to recover to perfectly straight as fast as possible. If you are familiar with shooting a rifle, you most certainly wouldn’t expect to hit the same hole with a different grain bullet and a different load of powder. Consistent spine is very important – anytime an arrow is flying any way but perfectly straight, energy and accuracy are sacrificed. Again, a qualified pro-shop will help you to choose the proper spine.

It’s important to practice with hunting heads on your arrows. A good broadhead target like The Block will absorb hundreds of shots with broadheads. If you forget your “arrow-puller” an old rubber glove works great.

Now you have your bow and arrows, another area I wouldn’t skimp on is a rest. Making sure your arrow is flying at its optimum efficiency is very important. You must tune your bow! Your rest is probably the biggest factor, aside from shooting technique and proper arrow spine, in getting your arrow to fly right. There are so many styles - which should you pick? Again, tell your pro-shop what you’re going to be doing with the bow and whether you want to shoot fingers or release, and they’ll be able to help you. I prefer the newer style "drop-away" rests.

When it comes to sights, personally I go simple. I want something that can be tightened down and won’t come loose or break. If I’m out in the bush somewhere and my fiber optic strand just came out of the sight-pin when I hoisted my bow up the tree because it got caught on a twig – I’m goofed. With the flat trajectory I get out of my set-up, I only use one pin for typical Midwest whitetail hunting. I may add a pin or two if I’m going out West. One pin eliminates confusion but multiple pins can build your confidence – your choice.

Once you are set-up and your arrows are tuned properly, practice is very important. Practice until it becomes second nature. When a Boone & Crocket buck is closing on your position, you should not have to think about your grip or your shooting form. You must also practice with the same gear you will be using while hunting. That means practicing with your broadheads. Never use the same practice broadheads in your hunting quiver unless the blades are replaced so they are surgically sharp.

The bottom line is, don’t shoot what your buddies shoot "just because." Use the advice from the pro-shop, but don’t let them talk you into something you’re not comfortable with. Choose a set-up that feels good in your hands and the one you have the most confidence in.